4me4you presents a spotlight on Y/Project, offering a retrospective look at their innovative approach to fashion. This feature includes highlights from their fashion shows, insightful Q&A sessions, and exclusive behind-the-scenes footage, providing a comprehensive view of their creative journey.
Y/Project, the Paris-based fashion brand celebrated for its avant-garde designs and groundbreaking approach to fashion, leaves behind a rich legacy. From its foundation in 2010 to its recent closure in 2025, the brand continually redefined modern fashion, blending architectural precision with playful subversion. This article explores the brand's remarkable journey, highlighting its key milestones, iconic creations, and enduring impact.
Founding and Early Years
Y/Project was established in 2010 by Yohan Serfaty and Gilles Elalouf. Known for its dark and introspective vision, the brand’s early years were defined by architectural tailoring, artisanal fabrics, and leatherwork. Serfaty’s designs embraced an avant-garde aesthetic reminiscent of contemporaries such as Carol Christian Poell and Boris Bidjan Saberi. The brand quickly gained recognition for its innovative use of materials and its ability to balance structure and fluidity in its creations.
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Martens introduced a playful and subversive edge to the brand, infusing its collections with a sense of humour and experimentation. His designs often blurred the lines between masculinity and femininity, challenging traditional fashion norms and appealing to a broader, more diverse audience.
Glenn Martens’ Transformative Leadership
Following Yohan Serfaty’s untimely passing in 2013, Glenn Martens assumed the role of creative director. A former collaborator of Serfaty, Martens brought a fresh perspective while staying true to the brand’s avant-garde roots. Under Martens’ leadership, Y/Project became synonymous with intricate pattern-making, gender-fluid designs, and a unique ability to reimagine wardrobe staples.
Iconic Creations
Y/Project’s daring designs captured the imagination of fashion enthusiasts worldwide. Among its most memorable creations are:
Thigh-High UGG Boots: A standout piece from the Autumn/Winter 2018 collection, this collaboration with UGG redefined the classic boot with oversized proportions, becoming an instant signature look for the brand.
Adventurous Denim: Martens transformed denim into an art form, using it as a canvas for experimentation. From cowboy boots to asymmetrical, voluminous designs, his denim creations featured unique details like straps, crinkles, and bold proportions.
Invisible Tank Top: Featured in the Spring/Summer 2023 men’s collection, this minimalist yet avant-garde piece demonstrated Martens’ ability to merge simplicity with innovation.
Video credit: Fashion East
Collaborations and Partnerships
Y/Project’s collaborative ventures further cemented its reputation as a pioneer in the fashion industry. Among these, the partnership with Jean Paul Gaultier stood out as a bold and creative endeavour, blending the distinct styles of both brands to produce collections that pushed the boundaries of conventional design.
Closure and Legacy
In January 2025, Y/Project announced its closure, citing the inability to secure ownership as the primary reason. This decision followed Glenn Martens’ departure as creative director in September 2024. While the closure marked the end of an era, Y/Project’s contributions to the fashion industry remain indelible.
Y/Project’s evolution from a niche avant-garde label to a globally recognised fashion powerhouse is a testament to the vision and talent of its designers. Its bold approach to reinterpreting fashion staples and challenging norms has left an enduring mark on the industry. Though its doors may have closed, the spirit of Y/Project’s innovation will continue to inspire future generations of designers and fashion enthusiasts.
Y/Project
