When John Galliano took the helm as creative director at Maison Margiela in 2014, few could have predicted the depth of transformation that would follow. Known for his provocative fashion and theatrical storytelling, Galliano’s tenure at Margiela became a symbol of both innovation and reinvention, propelling the house into a new era while respecting its rich deconstructivist heritage.
Over the course of his decade-long journey at the brand, Galliano merged his own avant-garde aesthetic with Margiela’s iconic principles of anonymity, subversion, and experimentation. As he bids farewell in 2024, it is time to reflect on the defining moments of his time at the house, tracing his artistic evolution year by year.
John Galliano’s return to the fashion world after a three-year hiatus was nothing short of dramatic. Appointed as the creative director of Maison Margiela in October 2014, Galliano was tasked with reinvigorating a brand known for its intellectual and deconstructed designs. His first collection in January 2015 set the tone for the years to come, blending the avant-garde spirit of Margiela with Galliano’s own penchant for storytelling. His designs were bold, full of drama, and completely unafraid of taking risks. For Galliano, this marked not just a return to fashion but a rebirth, pushing forward with a style that was both respectful of and rebellious to Margiela’s legacy.
Galliano’s first full year at Maison Margiela was defined by the launch of the Artisanal collection, which showcased the haute couture side of the brand. His vision for the Artisanal line was an ambitious fusion of meticulous craftsmanship, deconstruction, and modernity. Garments were crafted with intricate details: reworked fabrics, unexpected materials, and elaborate embroidery. These pieces were not just clothing; they were wearable art that blended Galliano’s theatricality with Margiela’s experimental ethos. The collection marked Galliano’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of haute couture, breathing new life into Margiela’s avant-garde legacy.
In 2016, Galliano delved deeper into the rich history of the house, reinterpreting its archives with a fresh perspective. His creations continued to blur the line between past and present, with oversized silhouettes and the introduction of unexpected fabric combinations. Galliano’s interpretations of classic Margiela garments became more playful and unconventional, while still honouring the brand’s ethos of anti-fashion. This was a year of re-imagining the brand’s identity—mixing modernity with nostalgia while simultaneously pushing the boundaries of what the fashion world expected from the house.
In 2017, Galliano elevated the runway show to an entirely new level. His collections became more than just fashion presentations; they became full-blown performances. Galliano’s theatrical approach to fashion was on full display, with models wearing dramatic masks, elaborate headpieces, and clothing that spoke to the surreal and fantastical. It was in these immersive presentations that Galliano truly began to merge fashion with performance art, taking inspiration from the worlds of theatre, cinema, and art to create a space where clothing and narrative coexisted.
By 2018, Galliano was not only revolutionising design but also embracing technology. The Spring/Summer 2018 collection introduced a range of garments incorporating LED lights, interactive fabrics, and futuristic textures. Galliano’s interest in the intersection of fashion and technology was apparent as he sought to make wearable art that felt forward-thinking and dynamic. This technological evolution set the tone for the future of fashion, combining Margiela’s conceptual spirit with Galliano’s forward-thinking ideas about the potential of digital textiles.
Galliano’s 2019 collections revealed a deeper commitment to sustainability. With increasing global concern over the environmental impact of fashion, Galliano turned his attention to eco-friendly materials and upcycling, emphasizing the creative possibilities within sustainable fashion. This was the year Galliano began to show the industry that cutting-edge design and environmental consciousness could co-exist. The resulting collections featured pieces made from recycled materials, innovative fabric treatments, and designs that championed both craftsmanship and responsibility.
The COVID-19 pandemic forced the fashion industry to adapt in unprecedented ways, and Galliano’s response to this challenge was both timely and groundbreaking. He led Maison Margiela into the digital age by embracing virtual fashion shows, presenting collections through innovative online platforms. Despite the absence of traditional runway events, Galliano’s digital presentations were immersive and captivating, ensuring his creative spirit still permeated the global fashion stage. These virtual shows served as a reminder of Galliano’s ability to adapt and innovate, even in the face of crisis
In 2021, Galliano’s collections took a bold step forward by embracing diversity and inclusivity. Models of all shapes, sizes, and backgrounds were cast for the runway, and Galliano’s vision of beauty expanded to encompass a broader spectrum of identities. Through these efforts, Galliano challenged the conventional standards of beauty in fashion, using his platform to promote a more inclusive and representative view of the world. This emphasis on diversity would become one of the defining aspects of his later years at the house, further enhancing the brand’s progressive and open-minded image.
Galliano’s love affair with Margiela’s iconic Tabi shoe reached new heights in 2022. The footwear, originally introduced by Martin Margiela, became a cult favourite over the years, and under Galliano’s direction, it underwent a renaissance. Galliano reimagined the Tabi in new forms, from boots to sneakers to sandals, making the Tabi not just a shoe, but a symbol of the brand’s evolving narrative. The renewed focus on the Tabi demonstrated Galliano’s knack for reinventing classics, giving the brand’s most iconic pieces a new cultural relevance.
By 2023, Galliano had firmly established himself as a master of couture. His Artisanal collection that year was an extraordinary example of intricate handwork, luxurious textiles, and precise construction. Each piece was a testament to his artistry and attention to detail, earning rave reviews from critics and fashion insiders alike. This collection represented the pinnacle of Galliano’s couture mastery, highlighting his ability to fuse technical precision with creative vision.
Galliano’s final year at Maison Margiela culminated in a grand and emotional farewell. The Spring 2024 Artisanal collection was a celebration of his decade-long journey with the house, featuring some of his most iconic designs, reworked and reimagined. It was a fitting tribute to Galliano’s impact on the brand, with pieces that captured the essence of both Margiela’s legacy and Galliano’s distinctive flair. The final show was a symbolic passing of the torch, honouring a creative partnership that had lasted for 10 years.
Galliano’s influence at Maison Margiela will be felt for years to come. His ability to reinterpret the house’s deconstructivist vision, while introducing fresh elements of theatricality, technology, and inclusivity, has redefined what it means to be a creative director in the modern age. Through his groundbreaking work, Galliano has reshaped the fashion world’s approach to luxury, craftsmanship, and storytelling, leaving a legacy that will continue to inspire future generations of designers.
As Galliano steps away from Maison Margiela, the fashion world eagerly anticipates his next move. Galliano’s future projects promise to be just as innovative and transformative as his tenure at Margiela, while the brand will no doubt continue to evolve under new leadership. Whatever the future holds, Galliano’s time at Margiela has undoubtedly been one of the most thrilling and groundbreaking chapters in modern fashion history.
Designer: John Galliano
A Decade of Innovation, Rebellion, and Artistic Vision
